Healthy hair starts with a healthy scalp. When we think about hair care, often the focus is on the hair itself, but our scalps merit just as much attention.
Because the scalp is the origin of our hair, it has a big job to do in keeping our hair nourished and balanced. Our scalp has the highest concentration of sebaceous glands anywhere on our body. All sebaceous glands produce sebum, an oily substance that keeps hair and skin strong, resilient, and healthy.
If the scalp is dry, depleted, burdened with excessive oils, or buried under product buildup, our hair will suffer for it. In situations like these, it might be time for an exfoliant or other scalp treatment.
Table of contents:
- What are the benefits of a scalp scrub?
- Identify your scalp type & needs
- Who should use a scalp scrub? Who shouldn’t?
- What are the benefits of a homemade scalp scrub?
- What’s in a GIY scalp scrub?
- What is the shelf life of a homemade scalp scrub?
- How often to use a scalp scrub
- Scalp scrub aftercare
- GIY scalp scrub recipes
- Scalp scrub FAQs
What is a scalp scrub?
A scalp scrub is a product that exfoliates and nourishes the scalp. Depending on the ingredients , it can address a variety of scalp conditions from dryness and itchiness to oiliness and dandruff to the buildup of haircare products.
What are the benefits of a scalp scrub?
Depending on the ingredients, a scalp scrub can accomplish quite a number of purposes, including:
- Exfoliating dead skin – Not only can dead skin cause itchiness and flakes, it can also prevent the living skin from stretching and moving freely.
- Removing product buildup – If you regularly use various conditioners, protectants, or dry shampoos, over time these can leave residues on the scalp and hair. These coatings can weigh down hair, produce a dull appearance, or cause products to work less effectively. They may even block hair follicles and sebaceous glands; cause brittleness, breakage, or thinning; and impede hair growth. If you regularly use products, it is important to give your hair and scalp a regular detox.
- Removing sebum/oil buildup – Overactive sebaceous glands gum up the scalp with excess oils and weigh down hair.
- Stimulating circulation – The massaging action of a scrub, as well as the stimulation of certain ingredients, bring more blood flow to the scalp.
- Supporting hair growth – By increasing blood flow and clearing away buildup, scalp scrubs can promote increased hair growth.
- Helping manage dandruff – Depending on the cause of dandruff, discussed below, a scalp scrub can help mitigate the appearance of dandruff flakes.
Identify your scalp type & needs
Knowing your scalp type helps you choose the right ingredients. Likewise, using the wrong ingredients could worsen your situation. Here are a few telltale signs of different types:
Oily scalp signs and characteristics
An oily scalp can weigh down hair instead of leaving it light and bouncy. With a scalp that produces excessive oils, hair might appear flat or stringy, and excess oil may even cause hair to be darker near the roots. When you rub your fingertips on your scalp, you fingertips might have a visible sheen.
Scalp scrub goal: Oil reduction and balancing, exfoliation
Dry scalp signs and characteristics
I have the most experience with this one, and thus the most to say! A dry scalp might be itchy, and even red. (It can be hard to see if your scalp is red, so a camera or a trusted friend can help.) A dry scalp can produce small, white, lightweight flakes, which are bits of dead skin sloughing off. These are different from dandruff flakes, described below. A dry scalp might cause hair to be frizzy or static-prone. When you rub your fingertips on your scalp, you might find some light flakes come off. The best clue that you might have a dry scalp is if your skin is prone to dryness elsewhere.
Scalp scrub goal: Moisturizing and mild exfoliation
Balanced scalp signs and characteristics
In between an oily and a dry scalp is a balanced scalp, which does not produce excessive oils nor the signs of a dry scalp. With a normal washing regimen, the hair does not show the weight of oils nor the itchiness or redness of dryness. I spoke with Jamie Scheppele, a salon owner and stylist, regarding the needs of a balanced scalp, and she advises that a scalp scrub may not be necessary. “If a scalp scrub is not needed, it can actually create issues where there were none. A scalp scrub sounds luxurious, but it is not a one-size-fits-all service and should be treated as a solution, not a luxury.”
Scalp scrub goal: Keep things balanced. Choose a mild version.
Dandruff-prone scalp signs and characteristics
When it comes to scalp flakes, there are flakes and then there are flakes, and embarking on a useful regimen begins with knowing what type of flakes they are. As opposed to the dry flakes I described above, dandruff flakes tend to be larger and range in color from a whiteish to yellowish hue. The causes of dandruff are still being pinpointed, but there are generally agreed-upon correlations to genetics, hormone shifts, increased sebum production, and the fungus Malassezia. Because there are other flake-producing scalp maladies, including seborrheic dermatitis and scalp psoriasis, if moderate homeopathic treatment isn’t resolving your dandruff, explore with a medical professional if the dandruff is symptomatic of another issue.
Scalp scrub goal: Oil balancing, mild exfoliation, anti-fungal properties
Sensitive scalp characteristics
You may have a sensitive scalp if you find you scalp tends to react noticeably to a new ingredient it doesn’t like, or if your scalp is prone to redness or irritation.
Scalp scrub goal: Soothing, nourishing, avoid exfoliating
How to know if you need a scalp scrub
Not everyone benefits from a scalp scrub, and scalp scrubs are not needed every time you wash your hair, so here are a few ways to know if you might benefit from a scalp scrub:
- Your hair flattens at the roots and, regardless of what you do, lacks body.
- Your hair becomes oily and needs more frequent washing.
- Haircare products that used to work for you aren’t performing as well.
- You have visible flakes.
- Your scalp is itchy, red, or irritated.
Who should use a scalp scrub? Who shouldn’t?
Jamie recommended scalp scrubs for individuals “with product buildup, excess oil, flaky scalp (non-medical dandruff), or those who use a lot of dry shampoo or styling products. They can also be beneficial for people looking to improve scalp circulation and overall scalp hygiene.”
However, Jamie also cautioned that an exfoliating scrub is not a good idea for anyone whose scalp is already irritated, broken, inflamed, or otherwise compromised; with a psoriasis flare-up, inactive dermatitis, or infections. She also recommended against an exfoliating scrub for anyone with very fine or fragile hair types, or individuals experiencing excessive shedding.
But that doesn’t mean that folks in these situations have nothing to do when it comes to their scalps. Scalps that might be harmed by exfoliation can benefit from a scalp treatment that does not contain an exfoliant but includes ingredients that nourish, soothe, and stimulate.
If you’re unsure if a scalp scrub is right for you, you can do a patch test, first on your arm, then on a portion of your scalp, as you gradually work up to a whole scalp application.
What are the benefits of making a homemade scalp scrub?
As with all of my GIY (Green-It-Yourself) recipes for personal and homecare, you achieve a few key things each time you make your own:
- You control what’s in them and can leave out any problematic or questionable ingredients such as preservatives or artificial fragrances.
- You can customize them to your needs and preferences
- They almost always end up being more cost effective than buying ready-made versions.
If making your own products sounds like great fun, I have a plethora of other GIY recipes for both body and home care here.
What’s in a GIY scalp scrub?
A scalp scrub is made of three basic components:
- A carrier base such as oil or soap,
- An exfoliant such as salt or sugar.
- Extras such as colloidal oatmeal (oat flour) or essential oils.
What you choose will depend on your scalp’s needs. For example, an oilier scalp might benefit from a soap-based scalp scrub, where a dryer scalp might benefit from an oil-based scrub. Or one in the middle might consider using gylcerin as a base. Jamie advises, “Formulation and exfoliant size matter. Fine, rounded exfoliants and hydrating bases tend to be better tolerated. Scrubs should support the scalp, not aggressively scrub it clean. Less is more.”
What extras should I add to create a customized scalp scrub?
When it comes to the extras, this is where the fun begins. I found that colloidal oatmeal, or oat flour, made a wonderfully soothing addition. Colloidal oatmeal is often recommended for a bath soak for anyone experiencing itchiness. Essential oils are another fun add-in. They offer a variety of potential benefits such as the mounting research that peppermint oil improves circulation and tea tree has antifungal properties. Lavender is pleasant and calming, while rosemary keeps popping up in studies about hair growth. Another option is aloe vera gel straight from a fresh aloe spear to sooth irritated skin.
As Jamie says, choose ingredients that are “gentle, purposeful, and beneficial when used correctly.”
What is the shelf life of a homemade scalp scrub?
Depending on the ingredients, your formulation may be shelf stable for a couple weeks or more. However, if you have fresh or spoilable ingredients such as fresh aloe vera or lemon juice, they will not be shelf stable at all. Since none of these homemade scalp scrubs includes a preservative, it is best to make what you’ll use in a few treatments, and consider storing the scrub in the refrigerator to prolong its shelf life. I intentionally kept the amounts in these recipes small so you could use them before any spoilage.
How often to use a scalp scrub
A scalp scrub is not something you would want to use every time you wash your hair. Start with once every other week and adjust to your scalp’s needs. There can be too much of a good thing and over-exfoliation is real. Jamie wants to be sure that anyone contemplating bringing a scalp scrub into their routine understands, “Over-exfoliating can disrupt the scalp barrier, cause irritation, and sometimes increase oil production, creating issues that were not present before.”
Your need for a scalp scrub may change throughout the year, as the weather changes, as your activities change, and as your body changes. Check in with your scalp to see how it’s doing before you treat it.
Seasonal scalp care
I can totally tell you what season it is based on what my hair is doing. Because of change in temperature, humidity, even my own activities that change with the seasons, I have to modify what I’m using to wash my hair and what extras it needs. Generally, in the winter months, my hair is dryer and needs a little more nourishing oils in my scalp treatments, and I wash it with Dr. Bronner’s Organic Sugar Soap. In the summer, with my extra outdoor, i.e. sweaty, activities, my scalp can use the pop of peppermint and light exfoliation.
Impact of the environment on scalp health
Where we are and the environment we are in also impacts our scalp needs. When you travel to a place that is more humid with harder water and possibly higher pollution, and when your activity level alters, your scalp is going to need you to match it. Perhaps your scalp suddenly is irritated and needs something more soothing, or perhaps the oil production ramps up and you need to balance it. Pay attention and be prepared to pivot.
How to use a scalp scrub
You’ll want to use a scalp scrub on a day you are washing your hair. Before you wash it, wet your hair, scoop some scrub onto your fingertips and massage gently in a circular motion into your scalp for about 60 seconds. If the thickness or length of your hair make getting to your scalp a challenge, consider sectioning your hair to expose parts of your scalp. The focus here is your scalp, not your hair. Consider letting the scalp scrub sit on your hair for a few minutes. An oil-based scrub could use this time to soak into a dry scalp, or a soap-based scrub could use this time to chase down some more wayward oil molecules.
Then, rinse out the scalp scrub. Shampoo your hair as you usually would. Follow up with a conditioner.
Double shampooing explained
For heavy buildup or following the use of an oil-base scalp treatment, consider the double-shampoo method. This method, which involves a wash/rinse/repeat of the shampoo step can help pull excess oils off the scalp and out of the hair. However, this is not an advisable method for dry scalps or brittle hair which benefits from lighter handling and cleansing.
Scalp scrub aftercare
As with any skin exfoliation, moisturizing afterwards is key to replace any lost emollients and to protect newly exposed skin. Consider a light application of one of the following oils to the scalp.
- Hempseed oil – A couple drops massaged into the scalp with the fingertips. Hempseed oil is not shelf stable, so store it in the fridge.
- Jojoba oil – Used similarly to hempseed oil, jojoba oil offers a shelf stable counterpart.
- Essential oils in a carrier oil, such as peppermint or rosemary oil in olive oil – A couple drops massaged in with the fingertips to harness the benefit of the essential oils for longer than just a shower.
Also consider following up with a hair masque treatment to strengthen the hair itself. This is of particular benefit to dry or brittle hair.
I like how Jamie concluded her advice on scalp scrubs:
“I always remind people that growing knowledge is a good thing, but when something becomes trendy, it is important to remember that not every trend is for everyone.”
I hope this overview has helped you diagnose what your scalp may or may not need. Share any concoctions you have found to be helpful.
GIY scalp scrub recipes
I compiled all of these recipes using the benefits of different ingredients for different situations. You’ll notice the small measures for each recipe because of their short shelf life, as discussed above. If you’d like to make a larger batch, multiply the measurements by 2 or 3, and I recommend storing them in the fridge.
The beauty of making your own personal care products is that you can swap anything out. If you’re not liking the feel of the white sugar, try brown sugar. Don’t have colloidal oatmeal? Leave it out. Prefer peppermint essential oil to tea tree? Swap it out. You’re in control here.
Ingredient index for homemade scalp scrubs
I had a super fun time mad-sciencing with all of these different ingredients. If you would like to GIY your own scalp scrubs, or tweak the recipes above, play around with this list.
A couple chemistry points to keep in mind:
- Acids and bases will react with each other, which means don’t mix soap (a base) with apple cider vinegar (an acid).
- Coconut oil solidifies below 66 degrees, so though it might be liquid in the kitchen, when I went to use it the next morning in the shower, my scrub with a coconut base was solid. Not a deal-breaker, but something to keep in mind.
| Ingredient | Benefits & Description |
|---|---|
| Base | |
| Jojoba Oil | Extremely compatible with our skin due to its close fatty acid profile to what our skin naturally produces. |
| Coconut Oil | Penetrates hair shafts to nourish from within, seals moisture into cuticles, assists in detangling, and smooths hair texture. |
| Sweet Almond Oil | Increases hair elasticity to counteract brittleness; softens and moisturizes skin. Moderately lightweight. |
| Raw Honey | Moisturizes and conditions hair, supports follicle stimulation, increases density, boosts softness and shine, and helps relieve dandruff discomfort. |
| Apple Cider Vinegar (ACV) | Smooths hair, enhances shine and strength, and helps remove product buildup from the scalp. Use filtered ACV. |
| Aloe Vera | Soothes skin, provides anti-inflammatory benefits, and helps mitigate dandruff. Fresh aloe is best but not shelf stable. | Cooling sensation
| Dr. Bronner’s Organic Sugar Soap | The Sugar Soap especially with its sugar and shikakai powder creates a mild, rich lather that helps wash away excess oil and rinses clean. Remember not to combine acidic ingredients like ACV with soap. |
| Avocado oil | Avocado oil is a nourishing, light oil for hair, and is useful for replenishing oils in the scalp and warding off dryness. |
| Glycerin | Glycerin is a sugar alcohol and acts as a humectant, meaning it draws moisture into the skin. Derived from plant oils, it is a moderate base for balanced skin and hair. |
| Exfoliants | |
| Salts and sugars vary in texture by brand. Rub them between your thumb and fingers to get a feel for the grit. | |
| Fine Sea Salt or Himalayan Salt | Rougher exfoliant due to cubic crystal structure. Not for sensitive scalps. |
| White Sugar | Provides moderate exfoliation with hexagonal crystal structure. |
| Brown Sugar | Softer exfoliation due to small crystal size and molasses content. |
| Coconut Sugar | Gentle exfoliation with small crystals and caramel aroma. |
| Fine Bakers Sugar | Mildest exfoliant due to very small crystal size. |
| Extra Scalp Scrub Ingredients | |
| Peppermint Essential Oil | Cooling sensation and linked in studies to increased hair growth. |
| Tea Tree Essential Oil | Antimicrobial properties effective against Malassezia, the fungus correlated with dandruff. |
| Rosemary Essential Oil | May improve circulation and stimulate hair growth. |
| Lavender Essential Oil | Provides a pleasant and calming experience. |
| Colloidal Oatmeal | Finely ground oats known for soothing and itch-reducing properties, helpful for irritated or itchy scalps. |
Salt vs. sugar scrub comparison
Although both salt and sugar can be used as exfoliants, their differences lie in their crystal shape and in their impact on the skin. “Salt” here refers to various forms of Sodium Chloride, whether standard table salt, sea salt, pink Himalayan salt, or another exotic version. This does not include Epsom salts which have a different chemistry. The crystal of Sodium Chloride is cubic, which means it has sharper angles than that of sugar, whose crystal form is hexagonal. Also, Sodium Chloride has a drying impact on the skin, whereas sugar, which is a humectant, has a moisturizing impact. Salt should be reserved for resilient scalps that are oily or have a layer of product buildup. Sugar is best for balanced or dryer scalps. Sensitive scalps should not use an exfoliant but opt for one of the non-scrub scalp treatments.
Scalp scrub FAQs
What is the difference between a scalp scrub and a clarifying shampoo?
A scalp scrub differs from a clarifying shampoo in what it targets. While a clarifying shampoo removes coatings on hair strands, a scalp scrub can focus on the accumulation of products on the scalp. Another difference is that usually a clarifying shampoo relies primarily on the chemical action of a soap or shampoo, while a scalp scrub often employs a physical exfoliant such as sugar or salt.
A scalp scrub and a clarifying shampoo can be used together to provide a thorough removal of product buildup. It is important to follow up after a scalp scrub with a nourishing scalp oil and possibly a hair mask treatment to replace lost emollients.
Do dermatologists recommend scalp scrubs?
Dr. Nancy Chen of Escondido Dermatology suggests that each individual analyze their own scalp needs. Those with a sensitive or irritated scalp should wait until symptoms have resolved, but those with no scalp hurdles can enjoy an occasional scalp scrub.
What are the signs of an unhealthy scalp?
Signs of an unhealthy scalp include itchiness, dull or lifeless hair, oiliness, flatness, products not performing as well as they used to.
Is it better to exfoliate wet or dry scalp?
On a wet scalp is the preferred way to use a scrub.
What’s the best way to exfoliate your scalp?
On a wet scalp, massage the scrub gently on the scalp with your fingertips for about 60 seconds. Then rinse and proceed with regular hair washing and conditioning.
Can I use a scalp scrub on color-treated hair?
An oil or glycerin-based scalp scrub is fine on color-treated hair. Avoid using a soap-based scrub on color treated hair as it may lead to fading.
How do I know if I’m over-exfoliating?
If your scalp has swung in the opposite direction, like becoming overly dry when it had been oily, or if your scalp becomes irritated or sensitive, you may be over-exfoliating. Once every 1-2 weeks should be sufficient.
How do I tell if I have buildup on my scalp?
If you regularly use products like dry shampoo on your hair, you likely have buildup on your scalp.
Further reading
- Hair Care with Dr. Bronner’s
- Hair Masques with Dr. Bronner’s
- From Shampoo to Soap – My Hair Story
- GIY Lip Scrubs and Tinted Lip Balms
The article is not meant to serve as medical advice, or a substitute for medical care or advice provided by a physician or licensed medical provider.
