Ever since I made the mistake of looking up the composition of dust, I consider it an icky four-letter word. I had assumed dust was just really fine dirt. Like super ground up rock particles. Yeah, no.
People who study dust—
Let me pause right here and say that I am extremely grateful for such researchers and doubly glad that I am not one of them.
—have found that dust is made of an overwhelming cocktail that includes shed human skin, animal dander, insect parts, food particles, fibers from textiles, soil from outside, soot, particles from combustion in gas and propane appliances—and here we get to the really disturbing stuff—heavy metals, microplastics, endocrine disrupting phthalates, flame retardants, synthetic fragrance compounds, highly fluorinated compounds (the PFAs and PFAs, aka “forever” chemicals), and phenols. This isn’t dust from obscure places. These chemicals, which are increasingly linked to a swath of maladies from infertility to diabetes to neurological issues to cancer, are in 100% of dust samples analyzed in a nationwide U.S. study over 16 years.
Stay with me here. I’m not done convincing you dust is bad.
What could be worse than dust? Dust mites
As if that list isn’t bad enough, then comes the knowledge that where you have dust, you have dust mites. Dust mites, which are a type of arachnid (think spider cousin), are something I really don’t like to think about, especially not in the context of their residence in my house. As disgusting as dust is, it is actually the mites that pose the greater problem to people with allergies or asthma. Dust mites, or to be more specific, the parts and poop of dust mites, are a more common trigger of allergies and asthma than the dust itself. I know you didn’t want to know this, but we’ll be brave and face it together.
With this knowledge, I have now bumped dust, and its mite-y companions, up near the top of my list of concerning contaminants in my house. They have joined VOCs (volatile organic compounds), or airborne contaminants, in my cleaning prioritization. (Learn more about VOCs and their hazards in my article, “When Good Smells Are Bad Signs”.) The reason these two rank near the top of my list of concerns is not because they pose the most danger, micron for micron. Viruses, bacteria, and fungi (so-called “germs”) can do more harm if we compare the threat of equal amounts, but because dust/dust mites and VOCs are far more ubiquitous, voluminous, pervasive, and seemingly innocuous.
Where dust and dust mites are the most concentrated
The biggest concentration of dust and dust mites is in our carpets, our bedding, and our fabric upholstered furniture. And who can blame them? It’s cozy, it’s protected, and bedding contains lots and lots of shed skin particles, their favorite snack.
The problem is, these exact places are where people like to spend a lot of their time, too.
If your kids are anything like mine were, they spend a whole lot of time in full body contact with the floors, and when it comes to bedding, it is the very young and the infirmed who spend the most time in them as well. What does this add up to? The most vulnerable among us are the most exposed to the highest concentration of dust and dust mites.
22 ways to reduce and eliminate dust and dust mites
- Wash sheets weekly with hot water and dry in a hot dryer. As you might imagine, with the 8-ish hours we are spending between the sheets each day, they collect a tremendous amount of shed skin cells, otherwise known as dust mite food. This is why it is essential to launder sheets and other bedding that is in direct skin contact weekly, and pillowcases possibly twice a week. Purchase sheets with a thread count of 300 or higher so they can withstand the frequent washing. Use a soap or detergent that does not leave residues such as fabric softeners on the fabrics, which can contribute to dust. Fluff pillows, comforters, and other bedding in the dryer weekly and give a full wash seasonally.
- Wipe down all surfaces with a damp, absorbent cloth once or twice a week. There is no need to use any chemical dusting spray which adds VOCs to the air and residues to the surfaces. A damp cloth is sufficient to pick up dust and not leave any residues behind.
- Vacuum once or twice a week using a vacuum with a HEPA filter. Invest in a high-quality vacuum. Read reviews because expensive does not necessarily equal effective. A good vacuum saves money in the long run because it lasts longer and does a better job, which protects your health. Consider the attachments in your purchasing decision too as they can help clean furniture, lamp shades, pet beds, window AC units, baseboards and crown moldings.
- Mop hard floors once or twice a week with a damp microfiber mop. Use a mophead that is detachable and washable so that you remove all the debris you pick up each week. Also use a clean-rinsing floor cleaner that does not add VOCs to the air or residues to the floor.
- Place floor mats outside and inside every door. Wiping shoes twice before entering the house is one way to catch debris before it gets tracked indoors. Vacuum or wash these mats often.
- Use washable throw rugs wherever possible and wash regularly. Take advantage of the availability of rugs that are easily washed in a washer.
- Have indoor house shoes, and don’t wear your outside shoes inside. I am a constant shoe wearer even indoors, and this is one habit I have come to realize the wisdom of. Having indoor shoes helps keep outdoor debris from being tracked through your house.
- Wash filters on your vacuum, stove hood, and other appliances that air passes through. Filters need to be cleaned regularly to be effective. Dr. Bronner’s Sal Suds and hot water is what I use.
- Install air filters with a MERV 13 or higher rating on your HVAC system (check your system’s capability). Regularly changing your HVAC filters reduces strain on your system and produces better filtration. I know there is a vast range of cost of HVAC filters, but this is one spot that is worth the extra cost. Consider purchasing in bulk to reduce the price.
- When the Air Quality Index (AQI) in your area registers over 100 (or over 50 for sensitive individuals), keep your windows closed. Most weather apps include a daily AQI reading. It is not a perfect system, but it is a good indicator on what the particulate level is in your area.
- Use ventilation fans in the kitchen and the bathroom. When actively cooking, showering, or using the bathroom, turn on the available vents and open windows if possible. This will help capture any food or combustion particles emitted during cooking, and will help reduce humidity levels in the bathrooms.
- Use an effective air purifier in bedrooms or other high-occupancy spaces. An air purifier is an electric appliance that trap pollutants and operate independently, as opposed to an air filter which attaches to an HVAC system. These are especially needed if you can’t open windows, or if the outdoor air quality is worse than indoors due to smoke, pollen, or other contaminants. There are many air purifiers on the market with a range of quality, so do your research. Identify one appropriate for the size and use situation. Keep up with the filter maintenance.
- Declutter surfaces. Having less stuff out means fewer places for dust to hide and less stuff to dust around. Dusting will seem like less of a chore.
- Reduce the number of stuffed animals, and wash or at least fluff them with the no-heat dryer cycle regularly. I know this can be a tough one for kiddos. My own kiddos have definitely sworn that all 43 stuffed animals are beloved and meaningful. However, plush toys hold on to a lot of dust and then get cuddled and nuzzled offering prime exposure to dust and mites.
- Fluff curtains and throw pillows on the no-heat setting on the dryer. It is amazing how much dust curtains and pillows gather. Just running them through the air fluff cycle in the dryer will pull a tremendous amount of dust out. If they can withstand washing, then do so, and if they can take a little heat, that will help, too.
- Keep the humidity inside your home below 50%. Dust mites thrive in high-humidity environments. HVAC systems often dehumidify when they are running, but you can also look into a specific dehumidifier to bring down the moisture levels, especially if you live in an area of high humidity.
- Install allergy covers on mattresses and pillows. These have come a long way recently. This does not mean encasing your mattresses in crinkly plastic. There are soft but effective coverings that keep dust and mites out of mattresses and pillows and are easily washable.
- Wash and brush pets regularly. Furry friends deposit a lot of debris in our house not only from their own shedding, but also in the dirt that they carry in their fur and drop on carpets and furnishings.
- Wash pet beds regularly. Keeping pets clean is not very effective if their beds are still harboring lots of dirt, hair, and debris. Purchase beds that can be easily washed, and wash them regularly.
- Exfoliate. This may sound like a funny house-cleaning tip, but it was pointed out to me in Taryn Maria’s dusting video and makes perfect sense. If dust is made up partly of sluffed-off skin cells, then if we reduce the skin we’re sluffing-off, we’ll reduce the dust. Therefore, exfoliate ashy skin in the shower and stop the dust at its source. A GIY Sugar Scrub either with a coconut oil base (if you need extra moisturizing) or a simple soap base is a great way to do this.
- When purchasing new flooring, consider hard surface. I know this is a big, long-term consideration, and of course super pricey. But if you are at a point of re-flooring your house, it is easier to keep dust off hard surfaces rather than carpeting.
- When purchasing new furniture, consider leather or other less fuzzy coverings. As with flooring, I know this isn’t something you can run out and do every day. However, if you happen to be looking for new furniture, and especially if you have allergy or asthma considerations, look for easier to clean surfaces. Also, opt out of flame-retardant coatings, which produce many of the hazardous chemicals that have been found in dust.
How residues contribute to dust
One of my biggest peeves with conventional cleaners is that most are designed to leave residues on surfaces. Whether it’s fabric softeners on laundry or shine on furniture or scent on counters, all of these are residues that are sitting on the surfaces after we have supposedly cleaned them. The purpose of these residues are to bring you, the consumer, instant gratification and joy. They do not add to the cleanliness of the surface, but they supposedly make you feel better.
You know what makes me feel better when I clean? Knowing that the surfaces are indeed getting clean and free of any substance on their surface.
Of the many problems with residues, the relevant one to the topic of dust is that residues grab hold of other particles and can even become particles themselves. This keeps dust around and creates more dust.
This is why it is super important to avoid products that leave residues. It is one of the primary reasons I recommend Dr. Bronner’s Pure-Castile Magic Soap and Sal Suds. They are clean rinsing, have no ingredients designed to remain on surfaces, meaning they do not leave residues.
As you evaluate the cleaning products you use around your house, think beyond the immediate usage, and choose ones that leave less residue behind on surfaces and are better for you, your loved ones, and the planet.
While this list of 22 may seem like a lot, choose just a few to implement first and you’ll notice a difference. I hope these tips help you stop dust at its source and clean up what is left.
Further reading
- Sal Suds Dilution Cheat Sheet
- Dilutions Cheat Sheet for Dr. Bronner’s Liquid Castile Soap
- 13 Essential Green Cleaning Ingredients
- Cleaning Upholstery with Dr. Bronner’s
Sal Suds cleaner shows >60% biodegradation after 28 days per ISO 14593.
What if you have a water softener which uses much less product? Do advise amount to use.
Thank you,
Love this product
Hi Lorraine- Although there is some soap tied up by the minerals in hard water, there is not a significant amount that would result in using a different measurement of Castile Soap.
Dear Lisa,
In your article about washing sheets, you mentioned that any one of your castile soaps will kill the dust mites. Does that mean that any one of your castile soaps will also kill demodex skin mites? I was under the impression that only Tea Tree would kill them.
Hi Kathy- I’m so sorry, I don’t have any information on this type of skin mite.
Hi I have the 18 in 1 almond and was wondering if it can be used in a carpet cleaning machine and if youd have a recipe for it. It’s my first time using it and I’m a little overwhelmed on how to use it
Hi Stephanie- I’ve not used Castile soap in the carpet cleaner. I prefer Sal Suds for that. But Castile is great for cleaning all kinds of other things, as you’ll find in the Castile Soap Cheat Sheet here: https://www.lisabronner.com/dilutions-cheat-sheet-for-dr-bronners-castile-soap/.
You mentioned to add 240ml of Vinegar to the washing.
Where do you add it to in a front loader machine. Our washing machine has three compartments for the detergent dispenser. (Pre-wash, Wash & Softener)
Which one do I add it to?
Hi Alison- Add the vinegar to softener compartment, where it will be dispensed into the rinse cycle.
Does the castile soap still work on mites if you don’t use a dryer? I hang my clothes etc on a drying rack.
Hi Catherine- Castile soap and hot water are a good duo for getting rid of dust mites. Air drying clothing does save on energy and is easier on fabrics, but the heat of the dryer will add another layer of eliminating dust mites, so you’ll want to take that into consideration.
hi, can I still dry my bedsheet without a dryer, and have a good result? Thanks!
Hi Chiara- Castile soap and hot water together are an effective combo for getting rid of dust mites. Line drying does save on energy and is easier on fabrics, but the heat of the dryer adds another layer of eliminating dust mites, so you’ll want to take that into consideration.
I have had some Castile soap for quite a while. I just couldn’t figure out how to use it. The bottle is very confusing as far as dilution. I finally have taken the time to look it up. However, I am wondering if my soap is too old. How can I tell?
Hi Judy- Our products have a guaranteed shelf life of 3 years. After this time, essential oils in the soap may begin to lose the potency/strength and smell weaker, but will still be effective cleaners. The manufacture date is etched on the packaging, just below the label. The first four numbers there are the Julian date. You can look that up, or if you share with me I’ll check. The Castile soap has so many uses! If you haven’t already found our cheat sheet, it’s very handy: https://www.lisabronner.com/dilutions-cheat-sheet-for-dr-bronners-castile-soap/.
Ewwwww
Never thought dust was that gross!
Ugghh!
Lots of pets
Litter
Birds
Equals Dust
I know, right?!
What do you suggest to clean a mattress?
Hi Cindy – For surface cleaning a mattress, I use one of my All Purpose Sprays – either 1 Tbsp of Sal Suds in a quart of water or 1/4 cup of Castile. I spray the mattress lightly and wipe with a damp cloth. Allow to air dry fully. The key is to be sure not to have moisture soak into the mattress where it might not dry and may mold. Another option is to spray the damp cloth with the a bit of the All Purpose Spray and then wipe the mattress.
I steam my mattress a couple times a year. I use my garment steamer, but I before I had one, I used to use my steam iron and a damp towel. Steam kills the dust mites, and denatures the proteins that cause the allergic reaction. 🙂
I’m wondering if you can use the same sal suds recipe for cleaning a down comforter. All the references I’ve found for home cleaning just say to use a mild soap.
Hi Cynthia- Sal Suds is mild enough for down, as long as the comforter is washable. Use 2-3 Tbsp. Sal Suds for a top loading washing machine or half that for an HE machine.
It worked great! I took it to the laundromat and used the extra large washer and dryer – for my queen size down comforter, I used 3 Tbs of Sal Suds and 1 cup white vinegar in the softener dispenser and did a double rinse. It’s clean and fluffy and mite free. Thank you!
Excellent!
I’d like to make sure Dr. Bronner’s with my laundry recipe using baking soda and washing soda and essential oil is that more affective? I can’t wash my sheets as they would shrink. I also and peroxide and vinegar in the rinse.
I I love your products
Hi Roz- Its great to hear you love our soaps! Baking soda and washing soda serve the same purpose in your laundry, so you don’t need both. Washing soda is the stronger of the two, so save that for really grungy loads. If used often, it can wear down fabrics. Essential oils are probably unnecessary since the soap will latch onto the oils and wash them away. Vinegar in the rinse cycle is a great natural fabric softener and deodorizer all on its own. I’ve just updated my laundry video, which you might find helpful: https://www.lisabronner.com/green-laundry-care-with-dr-bronners-video/
Re vinegar: I have used white vinegar in the rinse cycle for years. A repairman recommended it. It allows for more thorough rinsing so that clothes dry naturally softer. I never use dryer sheets. As a bonus, he also said it extends the life of your washer because it eliminates soap buildup internally. A win-win.
Excellent! Thanks for sharing, Laurie!
Commercial dryer sheets for softness and static do it by coating your clothes with chemicals, this stuff also winds up on the dryer heating elements, I never use the stuff.
[…] Dust Mites and Castile Soap […]
Can you use the soap for hand washing laundry? Or is it for machine washes only?
Hi Ana- Both the Castile soap and Sal Suds are great for handwashing! In fact, I recently posted a how-to on just that topic: https://www.lisabronner.com/handwashing-delicates-with-dr-bronners/.
[…] A quart of Dr. Bronner’s Liquid Peppermint Pure Castile Soap – Most often I add it to washing sheets and spraying for […]
[…] You’ll only notice this on shiny objects that are left to air dry. They will take on a whitish film. (Read my post on eliminating soap scum.) Also, absorbent fabrics like towels and cloth diapers will become stiff and lose their absorbency. (But laundry in hard water is still doable – Read more here.) […]
Interesting, but just one laundry with 1/3 c (79ml) would cost round about 5€ (5.9$), only for the soap. Incredible expensive and sadly nothing for the all-time use.
Hi Peter – For our everyday laundry, I use the Sal Suds as it’s slightly better at whitening whites and getting out stains. It’s more concentrated than the Castile soap and a little bit goes a long way. It’s just 1T Sal Suds (15ml) for an HE washing machine or 2-3T for a top-loading machine. Here’s my post about laundry with Sal Suds: https://www.lisabronner.com/sal-suds-in-the-laundry/
[…] Add ½ to 1 cup of vinegar to your rinse […]
Hi Lisa! Thanks for this post. I suffer from allergies, asthma and a disorder called Mast Cell Activation Disorder (sometimes referred to as syndrome or disease.) Which is sort of like I’m allergic to everything (or so it seems!) Pk my question: when you say add the Castile to the bedding in the washer…. my machine has a spot for soap that dispenses it itself, is this ok or do you mean I should manually add it? Thank you again!!! You’re such a blessing.
Hi Tara – Yes, just add it to the detergent dispenser in your washer. Our Baby Unscented Castile is often good for people with allergies and sensitive skin.
Everyone here speaks alot about laundry and Castile soap.
I want some deeper information.
Lets say disinfectant properties for castille soaps for athletes foot in socks on bedding and virus’s even for cold water fabrics. Which Dr. Bronner’s products eliminate or disinfect under these conditions.
Hi Sharon – Great questions. It isn’t often that soap makes the national headlines, but we were quite excited when it did 2 years ago. The FDA (which is notorious for its inaction as far as personal care products go) had looked into the efficacy of “antibacterial” products and found that they are no more effective at eliminating germs and stopping the spread of disease than regular soap and water. Here’s their article: https://www.fda.gov/ForConsumers/ConsumerUpdates/ucm378393.htm, and the most succinct quote from it is, “manufacturers haven’t shown that these ingredients are any more effective than plain soap and water in preventing illnesses and the spread of certain infections.” Although this article is addressing products used on people, the issue is the same. If soap and water are effective at removing germs and stopping the spread of illness on our bodies, they are going to do the same on other surfaces.
Regarding the temperature of water, the CDC came out with a ruling on that one saying, “The temperature of the water does not appear to affect microbe removal.” From this article: https://www.cdc.gov/handwashing/show-me-the-science-handwashing.html.
To sum up, the soap will work great at eliminating microbes of all sorts, even in cold water.
What about the recipes for clothes detergents that use a small amount of Castile soap, washing soda, and/or borax, and a lot of water? While it sounds very economical, this sounds like a really watered down version of making a natural soap.
Hi Patty – I apologize for my late response. The blend you mention is basically going to scour the clothes with the baking soda and borax, neither of which react with the soap itself. With a small amount of soap, you’re not going to get the beneficial grime-fighting properties of the soap. I would use one of the powders (I’d pick the baking soda) and the Castile soap.
I have a top loading machine without compartments for the soap. I usually put my detergent straight into the water. Without a rinse cycle compartment to put the vinegar how should i do this?
Hi Bianca – Either you can manually add the vinegar when the rinse cycle begins (which I would never remember to do unless I set a timer), or after the full cycle, add the vinegar, and set the machine to rinse again. The vinegar is only necessary if you have hard water.
I use Borax in both clothes washer and dishwasher to soften our very hard water. Has anyone here tried that?
Been reading the thread above and the smell of vinegar has been mentioned a few times. I live in hard water area and would definitely need vinegar in the wash. However, my husband loves the smell of clean laundry that commercial products has. Me, not so much. Is there a way to make the laundry smell nice ? Can I add some kind of fragrance to the mixture ? Thanks.
Hi tc – You can definitely throw in essential oils to the rinse vinegar. Try 20 drops (1/4 tsp.) and go from there to your liking. You wouldn’t want to put the extra essential oils in the wash water because the soap will just wash it right out. Another option I’ve seen is to take a clean rag or flannel square and put essential oils on that, and then throw that in the dryer. Kind of a homemade dryer sheet remedy.
It sounds like you’re informed already about the issue of fragrance in conventional detergents, but here’s something I wrote about it: https://www.lisabronner.com/changing-the-smell-of-clean/. Fragrance can be the most harmful ingredient in the mix. Here’s more info from the Environmental Working Group’s Healthy Cleaning Guide:
Put your “fragrance” in your laundry when you dry it. Buy some dryer balls and put essential oil on them before you throw them in the dryer with your clothes (I use 3 in each dryer load) you can put the oil on 1, 2 or all three balls depending how strong you want the fragrance. The dryer balls also help cut down drying time. Aura Casia essential oils makes a blend called Petal Power that reminds you of what a commercial detergent would smell like.
For dishes. Is lavender castile ok? The store didn’t have plain castile. And I am out of dish soap.
Hi Mary – Yes, the lavender is great!
What about hand washing wool sweaters?
Hi Abigail – The Castile soap works great for washing wool sweaters. I like to fill a sink with cold water and swirl in a capful or two of the Castile. Dunk in the sweater and wash. Rinse fully and dry flat.
[…] https://www.lisabronner.com/?p=815 […]
Which scent of castile soap would you use for laundry? Only peppermint? Can you use in dishwasher? Thanks!
How liquid equals one bar when making homemade liquid laundry detergent?
Hi Teresa – Bar soaps are 5% water, while the liquid soaps are 61% water. The chemistry is a little different for both, but considering that a bar soap is 5 oz., and thus 4.75 oz. of non-water soap, you would need 12.18 ounces of liquid soap to equal the soap content of a 5 oz. bar.
Great question, Teresa and thank you for the great answer, Lisa.
how does one safely clean silk sheets?
Hi Amy – Silk sheets need a gentle, clean rinsing detergent, which is exactly what our Sal Suds Biodegradable Cleaner is, https://www.drbronner.com/DBMS/category/SALSUDSCLEANER.html. Ideally, washable silk should be hand washed, but that sounds pretty laborious. I’d use cold water and the gentle setting on your washer. Use just a couple Tablespoons of the Sal Suds and a shorter wash time. Drying is tricky because line drying is best but sunlight can fade silk pretty quickly. Drying sheets indoors is a bit much, but perhaps you could do it over a shower rod. If you’d rather use your dryer, try them on the Air Dry (no heat) option, or on the lowest heat option. Remove them immediately once done.
Hi there, great Article.
I have a quick Q – Does the c. in measurements such as 1/2 c. mean a cup or centiltres.
Sorry an Australian here so not aware what reference you’re using.
ta,
Sharon
Hi Sharon – I’m so glad you asked. I need to keep our international customers in mind and update my measurement references. It does mean “cup” which is roughly 240 milliliters.
I have a GE top-loading washer machine and would like to try using Dr. Bronner’s Castile soap for the first time. Is it necessary to add vinegar? Does it make a huge difference to the way the clothes are being washed ?
Hi Janesia – It all depends on how hard your water is and what you’re washing. If your water is not hard, you definitely don’t need vinegar. If you have hard water and you’re washing towels, you will probably notice a stiffness in the towels and a drop in their absorbency. It basically functions as a fabric softener. Feel free to experiment with it both ways. The vinegar smell dissipates entirely when the laundry is dry.
Agree with Lisa about the vinegar smell dissipating after the fabric dries.
Hi,
I live In Germany, so have an HE front loader and hard water. Vinegar does´t sound so fun, so I have been wondering about trying baking soda instead of vinegar to soften the water….have you any experience with that?
Hi Deborah – I do add baking soda to my laundry sometimes, as well. However, I add it for whitening and deodorizing purposes. It is an alkaline. Vinegar is an acid, which lifts the mineral deposits that hard water leaves behind. I don’t think baking soda would have the same effect.
Just read an article over on the DIY Natural site and the author recommends baking soda over vinegar for fabric softening. What I don’t understand is that the author states to add it to the wash cycle. I’ve used vinegar in the past and will continue to do so as it’s less messy than baking soda.
In a HE washer…the soap would be 2Tbsp+2tsp of castille soap?? And it should be placed into the detergent cup and not on the bedding correct?
Hi Yvette – Generally we say that an HE machine would take half of what a regular would take, so for the soap that would be 1/4 c. of soap and vinegar. For the Sal Suds, that would be 2 Tbsp. of each. Put the soap or Sal Suds in the detergent spot and the vinegar in the fabric softener spot.
[…] https://www.lisabronner.com/?p=815 […]
1/2 1/3 c. You mean a cup or you mean the cup of the soap bottle.Thank you ?
Hi Sara – A measuring cup, which is about 119 ml for a 1/2 cup or 79 ml for 1/3 cup.
Would love to try this but I am worried about the vinegar reacting to the Castile soap and making the slimy substance when they are combined. We have a new he washer and I would hate for it to get mucked up.
If your fabric softener compartment doesn’t release until after the soap is rinsed out, you would be all right. However, I don’t know how you would test that. Maybe your manual would say. You are right in thinking if the two combine in your laundry, it would be a mess. Dr. Bronner’s Sal Suds doesn’t have this issue, though. If you used the Sal Suds with the vinegar, you would be fine.
I have heard you can use an organic conditioner instead of vinegar in the rinse cycle. Has this worked? Will it perform the same?
hi,im wondering in the measurements, does ‘c’ stand for cup or cap or laundry cap or dr bronners bottle cap?….
Most recipes use c or c. for an 8-ounce cup.
If the recipe calls for the bottle’s cap, it would be stated plainly such as “Dr. Bronner’s Castile Soap bottle cap.”
Hi, I’m from the Netherlands an d I don’t know what a HE Machine is? I have just a normal Bosch machine.
High-Efficiency Washers
HE washers use much less water and energy. On the other hand, they have longer washing time.
Standard laundry detergent is not recommended for HE washers since less water us used in each load.
Too much detergent woillclog up the machine because the amount of water it uses is not sufficient to rinse it out. That build up can cause the machine to malfunction and to eventually create an offensive odor.
Most HE manufacturers and their warranties suggest special HE detergent.
If one were to use regular laundry detergent, use less of it. A lot less — approximately one-fourth the amount you might normally use and dilute the detergent with water before pouring into the machine..
HE Machines are front loading cloths washing machines. In Europe American Top-loading washers are almost unknown… You most likely have a HE washing machine. (I am originally from CH and know this.)
“Most HE manufacturers and their warranties suggest special HE detergent.”
They are full of it, they will find a way to get out of the warrantee ANYWAY no matter what you do. I made the mistake of buying a new Whirlpool washer that turned out to be one of those HE washers, I had no idea what I was getting into with that junk! it puts only about 3″ of water in this huge tub no matter what you set the cycle to be, and after defeating the lid lock I was able to watch the thing during a cycle and it was a joke! some of the clothes never even got wet!
After that I started adding two 5 gallon pails of water to a full load once the wash started so it gets a good amount of water in the thing and select the extra rinse. I’ve only used regular powdered Tide laundry detergent but half the amount, and all is fine. There’s NO WAY I’m buying any expensive overpriced “special HE” detergent- it’s a RIPOFF and they have consumers fooled that they HAVE to use their special detergent!
Next washer I’m going to buy will be one of the Speed Queens, they still make washers that DONT restrict your water and have an agitator and will fill the tub for a proper wash
Do you use 1/2 cup of vinegar for small, medium, and large loads???
Hi Jetta – My household doesn’t know the meaning of “small or medium loads”. 🙂 I use 1/2 c. in a large load, so for smaller loads, use less.
I recently learned the best way to eliminate static cling is to reduce your drying temperature to medium and dry them for longer. I have been using this method and have eliminated my static cling problem. I didn’t realize it would be so simple. It also allowed me to eliminate the extra cost of fabric softener or dryer sheets and there chemicals.
Wool Yarn Balls work for the static cling, you can make them or purchase them online, just do a google search. I have used aluminum foil balls for static but I think the aluminum could be toxic so I stopped using that.
Will vinegar completely wash out? (For sensitive folks)
How much can I dilute solution to make a dish detergent ? Love this product !
You can find Castile Soap dilutions at
https://www.lisabronner.com/dilutions-cheat-sheet-for-dr-bronners-castile-soap/
Dishes (handwashing): Pre-dilute 1:10 with water. Squirt on a scrub brush and scrub dishes.
I too am wondering about the vinegar. Apple cider or white? Is this thread closed?
Does Castille work well in cold water?
Yes this is a question I have too. Will it work in cold water?
Yes, it will work just as well in cold water.
What do you use to reduce static cling. I have used white vinegar in the rinse cycle but there still remains static cling after using the dryer. Thanks!
It’s the dryer that causes the static, not the washer. To reduce static, you need to use dryer sheets/balls in the drying cycle. You can make your own felted wool dryer balls with just wool yarn. I found these instructions on Pinterest and plan on doing it once we use up our dryer sheets: https://www.bloglovin.com/blogs/free-people-blog-237509/diy-reusable-dryer-sheets-felted-dryer-balls-4211913517
Jim, I use Heinz white vinegar in my fabric softener compartment in my HE washer. It reduces static, softens clothes, and gets rid of any residue. Heinz supposedly smells the best as far as vinegar goes. You can’t smell it on your clothes. Good Luck!
apple cider vinegar? white vinegar?
I use white vinegar.
Distilled white vinegar for the laundry. I’ve used it very successfully as a “fabric softener” in the laundry. Be aware though, I have also had horrible results with it. In our current water, the vinegar leaves a horrible stink when used in the rinse, but is still wonderful for initial disinfecting on towels and children’s bedding when used in the pre-wash cycle. If you find you have stink issues after using vinegar in the rinse, don’t be afraid to drop it.